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San Antonio Pest Control – Flies
Everyone dreads the beginning of warm weather and the start of fly infestation. Most people make getting rid of flies more difficult task than it needs to be; using toxic fly repellent in the barn is not the way to effectively eliminate the problem. First, sprays hardly eliminate the problem, have a horrible smell and contain toxic chemicals; they also increase rather than decrease the fly population. There are easier ways to eliminate house flies that do not require hiring an exterminator who will use insecticide or fumigation methods that are harmful to the environment and do little to stop infestations for the long term. You will discover how much easier it is to get rid of flies after you understand the biology of flies, eco-systems of insects and how to handle fly control in a proactive manner.
The number one priority for effective fly control is implementing changes in your garbage and sanitation maintenance schedules. As you large animal lovers know, this is absolutely essential with livestock & horses. You might think you’re being the best possible horse mom, giving your animals the best horse feed possible and, the freshness of the ingredients serves as an unwanted draw to flies. If you’re concerned about horse health, you can’t allow these problems to get even the slightest toehold. Fly & Mosquito control is a byproduct of excellent sanitation. The first step in the process is scrubbing your garbage cans—replacing them is even better. Beginning right now always line your garbage cans with plastic liners, ascertain that the lids fit tightly and securely. Garbage cans that are securely sealed minimize odors, the biggest lure for flies, especially when they are looking for places to lay their eggs. More on this website @ https://jenkinspest.com/residential-pest-control/
It is essential to get rid of manure and garbage every week—no excuses for lack of sanitation. The fly life cycle is at least eight days from cocoon stage until their emergence as adult houseflies. Loose straw, mulch, wet manure, leaves and rotten hay are popular breeding materials for flies and should be covered in black plastic or spread thinly. This plastic covering helps maintain a warm temperature thus reducing the number of larvae that are able to survive.
Get rid of any animal odor near your property quickly. Small animals can cause fly infestation within 24-48 hours while larger animals can create a larger problem within the same period. Enlist the services of local authorities when you need to dispose of large game animals such as deer.
Weed control is another essential component of effective pest control. Like almost all species, flies need cool places to rest, and tall weeds or overgrown grass provide perfect spots for fly hangouts. (For those of currently raising plants such as medicinal marijuana, you may wish to try something a bit alternative, such as indoor cultivation, a green house or enclosed wire netting.) When you have a well-groomed lawn and fields you discourage visiting flies thus helping decrease the fly population surrounding your property.
The One-Two Punch Secret of Effective Fly Control: Reducing Fly Reproduction and Killing Adult Flies
It is a natural assumption that once you find yourself surrounded by House Flies the first course of action should be eliminating the infestation. However, blasting your property with fly spray is the worst thing you can do; it is not only toxic and ineffective for controlling flies but may also increase your fly population. It is important to understand you only see 10% of the flies causing the problems, so it is essential to maintain control over the other 90% in an expedient manner. This means you must kill the adult flies as well as any developing young in order to achieve fly control.
What many people don’t realize is they are surrounded by many beneficial fly killer bugs that are more than happy to prevent that 90% reaching adulthood. These fly predators prevent approximately 86-88% of fly larvae from becoming adult flies. They accomplish this by preying on the developing fly pupae and killing them while simultaneously turning them into perfect nurseries for offspring of their own. What you want to do is increase the fly predator population simultaneously with fly killing strategies that will not harm them. (Don’t forget that utilizing these techniques serve almost no purpose in effectively dealing with mosquito control problems.)
The only reason people have pest problems is because flies reproduce faster than beneficial predators at a ratio of nine to one. When you implement organic pest control you are pro-actively increasing the population of fly parasites thus decreasing the ratio of fly larvae that grow into adults by 2-4%. In order to achieve the best results you should spread the beneficial bugs in early spring. After that time, you need to use fly traps and poison fly bait. It is essential to know which fly traps work best with specific fly pests. You also need to know where to place the traps for successful fly killing and control. Now, if you’re tooling around in a fifth wheel or hauling an atv trailer, you might find any ensuing fly infestations require a completely different strategy.
Effective Pest Control Strategies: Which Fly Trap Goes Where?
The best traps for controlling House Flies are non-poisonous lures that emit odors; these are called attractant traps. They work effectively within a range of approximately 150 feet but cannot be placed near areas where you wish to kill flies. You can use these traps to draw flies away from barns, kennels and living areas. Sticky traps are effective in barns and kennels without increasing the fly population yet will eliminate the pests who have not chosen to take up residence elsewhere.
Fly traps with a visual component are necessary to trap Biting Stable Flies. Traps for house flies have no affect on Horse, Deer or Biting Stable Flies. You need to place lures at least 10 feet from the stable in a sunny area that is no more than 4 feet above ground. For effective cattle fly control you need to place each trap between 50-100 feet from one another in an area your animals cannot reach. The traps are not toxic, but they are extremely sticky. You will need specialty visual traps fin order to lure Deer and Horse Flies; the traps are designed to catch the flies when they try to escape.
How to Get Rid of Major Fly Infestations Before They Get Significantly Worse.
When your fly population has reached the infestation level it will be necessary to use poison fly bait. This bait zeroes in on the flies that are in charge of the swarming. Another thing you want to do is set out your fly trap and place your beneficial fly parasites in motion to capture any flies that attempt to emerge from their cocoons. Fortunately the poison fly bait doesn’t destroy your beneficial bugs but only the pests. Insect repellent and insecticides tend to destroy the beneficial bugs as well, an action that can create an ever-worsening fly problem. The reality is if you want to kill flies you need to begin by killing all the fly larvae before they mature thus reducing the adult population. No other way handles the problem efficiently.
There are some other beneficial bugs that are also immune to poison fly bait besides fly parasites. Mites and Dung Beetles help control the control flies and occur naturally in nature. When you combine these “good bugs” and fly traps, increased sanitation efforts and fly predators, you should be able to control your fly population without resorting to toxic fly sprays. Unfortunately you may find that your neighbor’s less effective methods of fly killing causes them unwanted pests to visit. Once you show him how free of pests your stable is, it won’t take long before all your neighbors will ask for advice on organic pest control products that actually work to kill flies. Once the see that fly traps, well-maintained laws, beneficial insects and clean garbage make that big of a difference, they will be more than happy to do likewise just to get rid of flies.